Sunday, October 27, 2013

Costa Rica vs. Nicaragua

Here is my attempt to describe some of the differences between Costa Rica and Nicaragua.  In short, it all comes down to a difference in money.  Nicaragua is A LOT poorer than Costa Rica.  Costa Rica is probably the strongest Central American economy, and as it turns out, Nicaragua is the second poorest country in the western hemisphere after Haiti.  I know, it surprised me too! I would have thought Bolivia and Paraguay were perhaps poorer.  Anyway, because of this disparity, the Costa Ricans seem to look down on the Nicaraguenses.  It doesn’t help that the a large chunk of Nicaragua–Guanacaste—seceded to join Costa Rica in 1825 because it found Nicaragua too violent.  The two countries still have border issues (doesn’t everyone?) that almost escalated into a war in 2010*.  How you may ask? Because of a cartographic error by Google maps(!).  The eastern border created by the San Juan River has historically been controversial, but when Google drew a map placing the border slightly to the south (granting Nicaragua a few square miles) events soon escalated.  under Costa Rican pressure, Google changed the online map, but Nicaragua militarized the area with 50 soldiers.  Costa Rica promptly exacerbated the problem by deploying 70 police officers.  After a series of complaints to Google, the situation is on hiatus.  Here is a nifty map:

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You can read the whole article about the situation here

But the monetary disparity causes a cultural shift, as well.  As soon as you cross the border into Nicaragua from Costa Rica, you are accosted by everyone in the vicinity.  The Nicas are desperate for some economic stimulus, so they pester you incessantly and loudly.  The Nicas know what they want, and say it vociferously.  As soon as you get off the bus, no line forms to collect your baggage, rather, everyone storms to the luggage compartment and sticks their luggage stub in the bus driver’s face.  The Ticos will passive aggressively cut in front of you in line, but for the Nicas, the line doesn’t exist. 

Likewise, the Nicas are friendly, and will talk to you (or anyone) they don’t know because in the end, they might make some money out of it.  the Ticos are friendly, but they blanche in comparison.  In Costa Rica, people are cordial and will greet you most times, but never get into full conversations with a stranger on the street.  This may also be a matter of acclimation.  Costa Rica is overrun with American expats and tourists.  So much so in some places that they could be turned into some kind of Disneyworld perversion (Welcome to Ticoland!).  This is kind of sad, because the majority of them don’t speak Spanish, or realistically, even try to.  The Ticos realize this, so when they see two white backpackers on the road, they just assume that they (we) don’t speak any Spanish.  It is refreshing to surprise them though :-)

It is a double-edge blade, however.  The high quantity of Americans has put a premium on conservation, so Costa Rica is exemplar in its national parks and conserved land.  The paragon of ecotourism, Costa Rica has the infrastructure to save our planet.  NIcaragua, sadly, isn’t even close.  The lack of respect for the environment here is blatant.  The majority of people will throw trash onto the ground/street/square/patio/out the window/into the sewer/etc./etc. as soon as they are done with it, without batting an eye.  Nicaragua has significantly fewer National Parks, and the ones that do exist are small and fragmented.  The general cleanliness of the country is much lower, and the water quality here is fairly abysmal (Sama just got sick in Granada).  But it has so much charm.  So we like it more than Ticolandia. 

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  This is me in the Dump/Bus station in Masaya!

So far we haven’t seen any architecture worthy of a picture in Costa Rica, but Granada is full of old colonial houses and colorful churches.  Take a look:

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Other geographical oddities I’ve noticed include the streets.  Those that are paved in Nicaragua, are more often than not, cobblestones, while in Costa Rica, asphalt.  My hypothesis is that Nicaraguan labor is so cheap, it makes sense to pays the extra workers and save money on an asphalt machine. 

There are many more stray dogs in Nicaragua, as well as rampant horses, pigs, and chickens.

Similarities include the climate and to an extent landscape.  Food is similar, but Costa Rican Gallo Pinto is made with black beans, and Nicaraguan Gallo Pinto is made with kidney beans—as well as served with cheese.  The Nicaraguans eat a lot more cheese than the Costa Ricans.  Finally, both of the Capitals (San Jose and Managua) are dirty, slightly dangerous, and not worth being in.

That’s all I can think of now, but I’m sure more will come soon.

Matt

*Despite the fact that Costa Rica doesn’t have an army.

3 comments:

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  2. Thanks for this piece, the comparisons are interesting! It kind of reminds me of the disparity between the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

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  3. It's a lot like the DR and Haiti. There is a marked discrimination between the two. Ticos will tell us not to go to Nicaragua because "it's dangerous". The Nicaraguans also are in a similar to the position Mexicans in the States are, too, a lot of them emigrate to Costa Rica for work, usually hard labor like construction and farming.

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